Feeding Uromastyx

Uromastyx are omnivorous which means they eat both animals and plants. Since we don't know exactly what they eat in the wild a wide variety of food items should be offered. Young animals more readily accept insects such as wax worms, crickets, and super meal worms, which should be offered three or four times per week.

The following vegetables should be offered; kale, collard greens, mustard greens, sweet potatoes, carrots, peas, corn, and green peas. In addition, dandelion greens, alfalfa, grass, and flowers can be added to the diet. Beans such as split peas, lentils, navy beans, and other should also be provided. Some of these beans can be sprouted prior to feeding. Bird seed should also be mixed in with the vegetables. A reptile vitamin containing calcium should be sprinkled on the vegetables. Some of the commercial iguana food can also be mixed in with the vegetables to ensure better nutrition.

There are some indications that nutritional needs are not easily met for this genus. Several herpetoculturists who are raising young Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx acanthinurus report slow growth rates.

Humid Hides For Leopard Geckos

Humid hides are vital for leopard geckos. Without access to proper moisture most leopard geckos have trouble shedding. Some will even experience toe loss. But what exactly is a humid hide. The best way to provide a humid hide is a plastic container with a hole for access. The container should have 2-4 inches of perlite, vermiculite, or moss on the bottom. This substrate should be moist but not sopping wet. A good way to test this is to squeeze a ball of this substance. It should drip slightly but not pour water. Heat is essential, so place this container over the hot side of their enclosure.

We have found that a hole placed on the top of the container is much better that one placed on the side. Leopard geckos are good climbers and good diggers. A hole on the side often leads to all the vermiculite ending up outside the container. One note of caution. Baby leopard geckos should be provided a damp paper towel in plastic container. It is very easy for baby geckos to eat the perlite or vermiculite and become impacted. We lost one of our very first baby's to impaction this way.

Why Quarantine?

I know all to well the excitement of a new reptile. And whether you are going to introduce it to your other herps for breeding purposes or just as a new family member quarantining is a must. In our experience, even the most professional and experience ed breeders occasionally have reptiles that slip through their screening methods. The results of not quarantining can be disastrous, including huge veterinary fees, lost breeding time, and even death of many of your colony.

Proper quarantining requires a separation and observation for at least 30 days, preferably 60. These animals should be kept in a container that will be easy to clean. A glass tank or a plastic shoe box container works great for this purpose. Proper heat should be provided as you would provide for any reptile. Now you want to look for signs of infection, such as loss of appetite, loss of weight, or lethargy.

Be assured that the extra time and effort that you put into your reptiles initial health will pay you back in years of problem free reptile keeping.

African Fat Tail Gecko Care (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus)

Fat tail geckos are common in captivity, although are not bred as efficiently as the leopard gecko. They are slightly harder to breed and are slower growing than leopard geckos. They are however, wonderful lizards and make excellent pets.

Housing

For a single or pair of fat tail geckos, a vivarium 60cm Length x 30cm Width x 30cm Height will be ample room. If you would like a trio (1 male and 2 females), than a 90cm vivarium would be required with additional hiding places. A vivarium can be made from a number of materials; wooden with melamine coating, glass, plastic and even good quality metal enclosures have been made.

I suggest a wooden vivarium, which is coated with melamine to allow the enclosure to last much longer. If you use regular chipboard or other non-coated woods, the vivarium will not last long with the water spillage and waste products related to keeping any animal. Be sure to have plenty of ventilation holes. Many vivariums are available on the market today already made to suit most reptiles, with ventilation holes and even fittings for the various heat and light appliances.

Substrate & Decor

Fat Tail Geckos come from hot and humid areas which should be re-created in a captive environment. Unlike the leopard gecko, they should be provided with a slightly more humid environment. Soil is an ideal substrate, as it holds the moisture without being wet and allows for natural burrowing to occur. If substrates such as newspaper and dry wood chips are used, it is essential to provide a moist box.

For a naturalistic environment, rocks, wood and plants can all be used. Although some live plants are safe to use, I suggest fake plants. Live plants will require more care and many give off toxic fumes. Be careful when placing heavier objects into the enclosure. Fat Tail geckos like to burrow, and will not hesitate to try and burrow underneath a rock. Make sure these objects are placed directly on the bottom of the enclosure and not on top of the sand, as this will collapse if the gecko decides to burrow under.

If you use any objects which have been outside, wash them thoroughly with hot water and weak disinfectant. It is important to be as clinical as possible and reduce any risk of bringing in infectious diseases or parasites.

Heating & Lighting

The most economical and simple way to add heat and light into your vivarium is to use a single incandescent spot lamp. Usually a 60 Watt bulb will be adequate for smaller vivariums. This should be on for 10-12 hours a day and should be used in conjunction with a Dimming thermostat. During the day time the temperature should be approximately 76ºF at the cool end, and 85-88ºF under the spot lamp. Once the light goes out, the temperature should be an overall 72-75ºF. It is often enough to just let the vivarium go down to room temperature. However, the temperature should be monitored with a thermometer and if it drops below the recommended temperature, some form of background heating will be required.

Background heat can be added with a small heat mat. This should be placed on the back wall of the vivarium and placed in the centre. Depending on how low the temperature drops at night, will depend on the size of heat you require. However, I suggest a 6”x11” HabiStat heat mat. This should be enough just to bump the temperature up a few degrees.

Feeding & Drinking

It is important that water is available at all times. Fat Tail Geckos are native to West Africa where the humidity is high. They will often drink from water droplets on logs and plants, but will also drink from standing water regularly. A shallow water dish which is hard to tip over and easy to clean is ideal. It is also an idea to have a bowl which does not have small crevices and cracks in it, which mould can build up in, and small insects can hide in.

Fat tail geckos are primarily insectivorous, feeding on insects. However will sometimes feed on small pinky mice and perhaps even eat small amounts of tinned pet food. Mealworms, wax worms, earthworms, crickets and locusts are all suitable prey items. However certain foods should be limited. It is important that the food you give your gecko is as highly nutritious as possible. It would be nearly pointless to feed a starved cricket to your gecko. Therefore, placing food such as potato peel and cabbage into the insect’s enclosure will benefit the gecko as much as the insects. Gut-Load can also be bought from many retailers. This is a balanced food for insects and should be offered to the insects at least 12 hours before feeding.

Hatchling or juvenile fat tail geckos should be fed on a daily basis. They will eat up to around 8 small crickets or similar insects. These insects should be either crickets or locusts, and should be no larger than the width of the gecko’s mouth. Wax worms can be offered in small quantities once a week, and mealworms can also be offered in small quantities twice a week. A Calcium:Phosphorous supplement should be dusted onto the food every other day. This is to aid in growing a healthy, strong bone structure, particularly in the leg and jaw areas. MediVet Repton, 2:1 Calcium:Phosphorous is a good product to use.

Adults can be fed less regularly, 2 or 3 times a week. They should eat around 8 insects at a time, but obviously these should be larger insects, approximately the size of the gecko head. It is important the food is not too small for the gecko not to be interested, and also important for it not to be too big for it to become hard to swallow. For females in breeding season, calcium supplements should be added to food on every feeding, to aid in the development of the eggs. For males and females out of breeding season, a dusting of supplements once a week will suffice.

Pinky mice should also be offered to breeding females every week, this will help build up fat reserves quickly after the laying of her eggs. They can also be dipped in calcium dust to help maintain healthy eggs.

By Chris Jones Director of Pet Club UK Ltd. http://www.petclubuk.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_M_Jones

Green Iguana Information (Lizard)

Housing
Normally, adult Iguanas can grow to 5-6 feet and thus should be housed in a larger cage. Tall cages or optimal for this type of lizard as they are tree-dwelling and consequently would prefer to be as high from the ground as possible. It is very important to sterilize all branches that will be placed in the enclosure with a mild bleach solution. The relative humidity level of the enclosure should be kept at approximately 70-75%, and this can be obtained by misting the enclosure a couple times daily. Although many people feel that their Iguana could safely roam around the house, the opposite is generally true. Not only do you run the risk of your lizard knocking over it’s heat lamp and starting a fire, it is also common for large amounts of damage to be done to furniture, carpet, wiring, etc.

Heating
Reptiles in general are Ectothermic which means that they do not produce their own body heat. Thus, reptiles must be given a combination of both warmer and cooler areas in their enclosure. This will allow them to choose their own temperature. Proper heating is vital to a lizards survival, as it allows for a healthy immune system and proper digestion.

Lighting
“Full Spectrum Lighting” is vital to a lizards survival. When selecting a light source ensure that it provides ample UVB rays. For Iguanas this is particularly necessary. The most optimal lightin conditions would provide natural sunlight to the Iguanas. This however is normally not practical as even a standard window can filter out the beneficial UVB rays.

For all your lizard information needs visit The Lizard Lounge. All species of Lizards are represented with articles and care sheets.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tim_Buchinger

Tips for Stores Selling Bearded Dragon Lizard

When deciding to put up a store that will sell the popular bearded dragon lizard and other reptiles, a lot of thought, planning and consideration should be made before investing in any venture. Honesty should be the measure of every aspect of your business, from acquiring the animals to selling them to their new owners.

As a well-liked reptile pet, the bearded dragon lizard can attract many buyers, adults and children alike. The good business prospect, aside from your personal affection for these animals, make it almost essential that you enter this business. If you are not a professional breeder or if you have limited experience in obtaining, caring for, and selling lizards, below may be some helpful tips for stuff that you need to prepare for.

Treat the Animals Correctly and Ethically

As a reptile store seller, the animals under your care must receive your utmost attention and effort. Ensure that all their needs are met like food, proper housing, hygiene, and enough space to develop in.

Ensure also that you obtain them from legal sources. Illegally sold lizards do not only violate the law but also violates their rights as animals. Ethical treatment of animals is a must if we want to keep our scaly friends around for a long time. Research thoroughly before signing with any breeder, their methods of raising their animals must comply with the legal and ethical standards of animal production

Be Knowledgeable About your Animal

If you are going to sell bearded dragon lizards, then you should know about bearded dragon lizards. Prospective clients will usually ask about breed, selection qualities, animal needs, and where to get support after buying. It is more likely that they will trust you if you are well-informed about lizards and if you can answer their inquiries with confidence and accuracy. Nobody would like to buy a bearded dragon lizard from a seller who doesn't even know what to feed it. Research and exert effort in finding out everything you can about your dragon, as this will help you improve the care you provide and the sales that you will generate.

Knowing about bearded dragon lizards should not end with you. If you have staff, train them also. Make it a point that they are well versed with at least the basics of dragon care and supplies.

Offer Variety

Although bearded dragons are distinct for their friendly and sometimes docile nature, it doesn't hurt to add variety every now and then. If you want to concentrate on this particular reptile, make available in your store dragons with varying colors, different breeders, and different ages. Make sure you have both genders and different sizes.

Stock up on different accessories and supplies. Provide equipment in varying material like wood, plastic, or glass. Have different kinds of worms and crickets around to cater to those who want to feed their pets with different food every time.

Make your store as interesting as possible by offering choices to your buyers.

Provide After Sales Support

After successfully marketing and selling your bearded dragon lizard, don't just walk away. Stay tuned to the continuous needs of both the buyer and the pet. Aside from having available food and equipment supply, make sure you have a nearby vet to provide assistance should any of your dragons get sick. If you can't afford to keep a vet staff, offer a partnership with your local vets. Also, be around to answer queries that your buyers may face a few days, or even months, after purchasing a lizard.

Being around to provide ready support is leaves the impression that you are truly a friend of the animals because you care about their well being even after they have left your store.

Michael Torresi is a freelancer and lizard expert. For more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 3 times longer, go to www.beardeddragonsecrets.com/tips.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Torresi

Proper calcium for bearded dragons

For healthy bearded dragons it is important that you watch the calcium to phosphorus ratio. Just providing calcium is not enough. For every amount of phosphorus you provide you need to provide at least the same amount of calcium. Failure to provide this will result in your bearded dragons body pulling needed calcium from their bones. This is what causes metabolic bone disease. Below we will provide a list of vegetables with their calcium-phosphorus ratio.

Acorn Squash .90:1

Alfalfa Sprouts .46:1

Apples with Skin 1.00:1

Apples without Skin .56:1

Arugula 1:1

Asparagus .41:1

Banana .32:1

Beet Greens 2.98:1

Broccoli .72:1

Brussels Sprouts .61:1

Butternut Squash 1.5:1

Cabbage, Green 2.00:1

Cabbage, Red 1.20:1

Cantaloupe .59:1

Carrots .59:1

Cauliflower .61:1

Celery 1.40:1

Cherry .77:1

Chicory 2.14:1

Chinese Cabbage 2.85:1

Collard Greens 14.5:1

Coriander 2.72:1

Cucumber .78:1

Dandelion greens 2.89:1

Endive 1.86:1

Grapes 1.40:1

Green Beans 1.21:1

Honeydew melon .88:1

Kale 2.41:1

Looseleaf Lettuce 2.71:1

Mustard Greens 7.52:1

Papaya 4.80:1

Parsley 3.25:1

Parsnips .5:1

Peaches .45:1

Pear 1.06:1

Pineapple 1.00:1

Pumpkin .48:1

Radish 1.13:1

Raspberries 1.8:1

Rice, Cooked White .37:1

Romaine lettuce .77:1

Spinach 2.02:1

Strawberry .75:1

Summer Squash .57:1

Swiss Chard 1.10:1

Turnip Greens 4.42:1

Tofu (Soy) 1.08:1

Watercress 2.00:1

Watermelon .93:1

Zucchini .48:1

Yam .31:1
Information was provided by the USDA at www.nal.usda.gov

Gut Loading Crickets, Mealworms, and Roaches

I know we all try our hardest to give our reptiles the healthiest insects. But this can be a challenge. Simply dusting the feeder insects is not enough. When researching the health benefits of certain vegetables for my bearded dragons I found several vegetables that are full of vitamins and minerals, but I can never get my bearded dragons to touch them.

So the dilemma is how to get all those nutrients into our reptiles. One way I've found is through the proper gut loading of my feeder crickets, meal worms, and roaches.
It can get expensive to buy vegetables just to feed to your insects. We feed our feeder insects our family fruit and vegetable scraps. We feed them the peels, skins, or cores. We just bought a juicer and started feeding the insects the left over pulp. You would be amazed to see how much of the pulp they will consume. We now feel confident that our reptiles are getting the best nutrition possible.